It all started with the red apple.Chicago’s sinfully attractive La Pomme Rouge operates in the name of mankind’s most pivotal moment:

“The serpent beguiled me, and I did eat.”

The only reason to warn against beguilement at the threshold of this red apple is the danger of needing to return every night to experience perfection.

Whether it’s the hospitable welcome I receive every time I visit or the fantastical aestheticism of the marriage between Baroque and Victorian decor, La Pomme Rouge delivers unique and enchanting experiences to its diners, drinkers and loungers.

My visits to La Pomme Rouge always begin with a champagne cocktail and quickly progresses to the extensive wine and cocktail list. The barmen take pride in their cocktails, which I could taste with each sip of my Dirty Martini. Wine is served by the glass or bottle; I’m happy to say the restaurant has always kept the wine flowing at my table.

Allow me to describe my favorite part: Chef Brain Jupiter’s genius. While the 12-page menu boasts an eclectic wine, champagne and cocktail menu, two lovely pages detail some of the most creative combinations of savory and sweet ingredients I have ever read.

After dining at La Pomme Rouge three times in the past two months and sampling nearly every menu offering, I have pinpointed my menu favorites. The magnetism between my palate and my favorite Artichoke and Truffle Risotto starter strengthens exponentially each time I visit. Its fragrance and taste from the Black Truffle Pecorino and White Truffle drizzle has yet to escape my thoughts. Chef Jupiter achieves the perfect creamy texture but keeps the dish light with truffle accents in every bite. Occasionally, tangy artichoke pieces surprise your tongue and cut through the Arborio rice melting in your mouth. Don’t let the plate fool you – it dwarfs the serving size, which could substantially serve as a main course. I, however, race to sit down at the table just to make the risotto appear before me as quickly as possible.

I must admit that I am equally impressed with the linguini and spinach floating in Heirloom tomato jus, basil pesto and roasted garlic infused olive oil. Like the risotto, this dish could make a very satisfying vegetarian entree, bursting with the salty basil pesto but tamed by the sweetness and texture of roasted heirloom tomatoes. But La Pomme Rouge’s risotto will always have a special place in my heart – and stomach.

I have also had the pleasure to sample the Filet Mignon Baguette served with Shitake mushrooms, smoked Gouda and crispy sweet onions. This dish reminds me of a rich bruschetta that prepares your taste buds for bold, daring flavors. You get to build your own filet mignon petite sandwiche and add just the right amount of crunch with the side of crispy onions, allowing the diner to gauge the amount of flavor in each bite.

The restaurant’s Soup Du Jour, which conveys innovative twists on old favorites such as Crab and Corn Chowder, never ceases to amaze me. Beautifully presented in an asymmetrical bowl, the soups are always refreshing and warm you up on any notorious Chicago winter night.

Entrees are divided into two categories at La Pomme Rouge: The Land and The Sea. I’ve eaten my way through The Sea and cannot wait to conquer The Land. Chef Jupiter prepares his seafood to perfection, juxtaposing the buttery fish against al dente accompaniments. I can’t resist the Atlantic King Salmon dressed with Moet and Thyme Beurre Blanc and served with Acadian Green Rice and roasted tomatoes. Somehow, the oily salmon pairs perfectly with the butter sauce and the tomatoes and rice provide a hint of salt with each bite. Another favorite of mine would be the Tuna Twice, or the restaurant’s best-of-both worlds dish. The chef separates the rectangular plate into two parts with a Balsamic vinegar barrier. The left side boasts a blackened tuna steak resting on top of a lobster risotto cake while the right side offers a stack of succulent tuna tartar with a hint of jalapeño lime vinaigrette. It’s a creative dish that seems so obvious, but remains unique to La Pomme Rouge. The last sea offering is the Crab crusted Kona Kampachi, which walks the delicate texture line between smooth and, well… crusty. Chef Jupiter combines down-home ingredients, including crawfish and sweet corn grits, mushrooms and collard greens, with innovative flavors that retain southern cooking flare. Kona Kampachi is a patented process in which Hawaiian yellowtail fish are bred and harvested using sustainable acquaculture technology. As if the flavor wasn’t impressive enough, the chef contributes to environmental safety.

Moving onto land, the flavor of the Bourbon Roasted Amish Chicken served with house bourbon sauce, five-cheese mac and watercress salad hits you immediately and saturates your senses. One suggestion I would give with this dish is to serve a fresh watercress salad as opposed to the sautéed watercress side; I think it detracts from the dish’s flavor.

The irresistible red apple that Eve fell victim to manifests itself in the dessert and cheese platter. I try to eliminate personal guilt by convincing myself that I will only snack on a few pieces of cheese without ordering dessert – a solid effort but implausible idea. The cheese plate is served perfectly with quince paste and candied walnuts. I dare you to resist the dessert, which, like the serpent, entices and persists until you give in – and you will give in shortly after the waitress hands you the dessert menu.

I must admit that I am incapable of resisting this red apple. It must be the flavors that greet you at the door, along with smiling hosts. Or it could be the scents of the booming bouquets of flowers lining the bar. In any case, La Pomme Rouge achieves a comfortable balance between impressive, bold decor and intimate, genial ambiance. As if that weren’t enough, the restaurant offers half-priced bottles of wine and shows classic films on Monday nights. Step into the red walled, ornately furnished space that is La Pomme Rouge this coming Monday – you’ll find me in a velvet-lined booth in the back enjoying a cocktail.

La Pomme Rouge
108 W. Kinzie St.
Chicago, IL 60610
Tel: (312) 245-9555
www.lapommerouge.com

- Written by Karla L. Yeh (karla.yeh@gmail.com)

Karla Yeh loves to try new foods and meet new people and is a frequent contributor to Vezeo.

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