It’s safe to assume, at least in my case, that if the restaurant at a new luxury resort in the California Wine Country decides to balance its menu of healthy spa meals with a few greased-up options unbecoming of a wellness retreat we are going to get along fairly well.

Upon arrival at the new Solage resort in Calistoga — the younger sibling to Auberge du Soleil in the Napa Valley — I could not help but make a to-do list of the resort’s activities: pilates and yoga classes, bocce games and laps in the 130-foot palm-tree-line pool. In trying to mentally schedule them in between tastings at local wineries like Schramsberg and Clos Pegase, I began to feel a little overwhelmed. And in that case, there was only one thing to do: eat.

After I settled into my private, freestanding studio (we’re talking fenced-in backyard with personal outdoor jacuzzi), I jumped on my complimentary cruiser bike and pedaled to SolBar. I opted for outdoor seating, which at this restaurant is really just an arbitrary distinction since its huge windows stay open during the day, creating a relaxed, indoor-outdoor atmosphere that’s popular in these parts. I ordered a glass of fresh strawberry lemonade (I became hooked after I poured a few complimentary glasses from the spout at the reception desk), and for a moment I actually considered chef Brandon Sharp’s healthy options. The roasted summer squash bruschetta sounded mildly appealing, and if it wasn’t for the simple fact that arugula makes my mouth itch, I would have ordered the chicken salad. But, as I mentioned, these thoughts were fleeting. In an act of indulgence — because what’s a vacation for if not pleasure and excess? — I requested a double-cheeseburger, medium rare. It arrived perfectly cooked, on a toasted brioche bun (the sign of an upscale burger, in my opinion), with sides of french fries and fried pickles. My teeth sunk into the burger like — you’ll have to forgive the cliché, but there’s really no other way to describe the sensation — a hot knife through butter. My chin dribbled with grease. My conscience may have been halfway between heaven and hell at that point, in the netherland known as purgatory, but in my life’s experience, a good cheeseburger is hard to come by, and so are instances of carpe diem.

On the way back to my studio, I pedaled the cruiser past the gym and envied the guests who were stepping into their mud treatments at the Mud Bar, and the ones just finishing up their hour-long yoga class in corpse pose. I, too, intended to assume this pose, but from the comfort of my well-appointed room, furnished in natural materials and outfitted with two flat-screen TVs, a fireplace, and a shower that doubles as a steam room. The last thing I remember is slipping between the luxurious Italian linens before my alarm went off, waking me for my 9 a.m. bocce class.

Solage Calistoga
755 Silverado Trail
Calistoga, CA 94515
Tel: (866) 942-7442
www.solagecalistoga.com

- Written by Leilani Marie Labong

Ms. Labong is a world traveler, having lived in Japan for three years, during which she traveled extensively through Asia, Australia and New Zealand.

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