The black stucco building at the corner of Valencia and 15th Streets resembles a hideaway, a speakeasy from the good old days. Its blackout shades and tinted windows reveal nothing. The only sign is a board above the door marked with a red circle surrounding a white star. Obscure and shadowy, this Mission neighborhood restaurant is the last place you’d expect to find a cozy nook. But on foggy nights in San Francisco when the door bursts open, allowing beams of light to flash and a cacophony of voices to cascade down the block, the Roaring Twenties come to life.

On the outside Little Star Pizza is cloaked in mystery; but inside you’ll find an openhearted atmosphere sparkling with unguarded laughter. Many couples come to this small haven after work to get a glass of wine and share a pie with friends. The exposed brick walls and dark wooden tables envelop customers in warm, earthy hues. Soft candlelight flickers against wine glasses and pale green olive oils, welcoming the hungry to partake liberally.

Families gather at the door during the early evening hours drawn by the classic food. As the night rolls on the crowd becomes sleek and cosmopolitan. It becomes part of the Mission nightlife. The menu is straightforward: one page that contains salads, garlic bread, pizza, and dessert. The Caprese Salad with fresh mozzarella, sweet sliced tomatoes, and basil drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar is light. Such a dish is typically Californian with few ingredients, each one showcased beautifully. Though the noise level can reach a fever pitch, you will have no trouble focusing on the gourmet spicy chicken wings that are coupled with a rich, blue cheese dressing.

The best reason to brave a misty night to Little Star is the deep dish pie. There are plenty of thin crust options on the menu, but you must take risks and try the Chicago Classic on the West Coast. The oil and butter crusts are double baked with a light taste of cornmeal finishing off every full and satisfying bite. A soft, thick textured crust supports heavy toppings like large chunks of tomato that explode in your mouth and bricks of bubbling feta cheese that melt on your tongue. The Mediterranean is filled with chicken and green olives and the Classic is stuffed with green peppers. The herbs are potent, but under control. If you cannot bring yourself to eat the deep dish outside of Chicago then the thin crust white pie is especially good and surprisingly light.

For dessert there is really only one option. If you haven’t had your fill, finish with a slice of the homemade cheesecake. Pure white silk, the creamy texture should be as illegal as moonshine.

You do not need to light a match and whisper low to get a seat, but be prepared to wait a few minutes for a table. Even Al Capone would have trouble getting his favorite spot on a Friday night at Little Star Pizza.

Little Star Pizza
400 Valencia St.
San Francisco, CA 94103
Tel: (415) 551-7827
www.littlestarpizza.com

- Written by Cait Morrison (cait.morrison@gmail.com)

A writer living in San Francisco, Ms. Morrison enjoys eating out, cooking at home, and foggy weather. She has written several historical text books for grades K-12 and has learned interesting facts about the American Revolution and Ghengis Khan. She hopes to use these nuggets in her reviews.