To stay at Auberge du Soleil, the Inn of the Sun, one must suspend certain disbeliefs and succumb to the whimsical feeling its name implies. If so willing, and provided they have availability, you will be immersed in an amazing resort experience in the heart of Napa Valley Wine Country.

My companion and I stayed in a hillside view “Maison Room” at Auberge, commonly regarded as the absolute best accommodations in the Napa region. Due to its name recognition alone, I believe we were even given extra pours at a number of wineries during our tasting tour.

It didn’t take long to realize Auberge du Soleil is truly a full service resort. Upon checking in, a nice young man loaded our bags onto a golf cart and whisked us down a series of trails through the winding olive grove to our room, promising to deliver upon any request. I often make similar assurances to varying degrees of success, my companion noted. You would be hard pressed to find any individual who stacked up favorably to the team of service professionals at Auberge, a member of Relais & Châteaux, the most prestigious collection of small luxury hotels and restaurants in the world.

So few details are overlooked at Auberge that upon reaching our room we found our names printed on the mail box, where a myriad of complimentary newspapers are delivered every morning. Inside, the soothing orange and white Mediterranean motif peppered with original artwork put us instantly at ease. One desires to leap onto the master bed like a child and disappear under a flurry of pillows. A tasteful fireplace, accommodating balcony, along with a full sized bathtub and plasma TV, are a few highlights of the Maison Room. The urge to slip on the provided plush bathrobe and slippers, pop a coffee serving into the Senseo machine, and nibble on some gourmet chocolate from the mini-bar — all free of charge — can barely be resisted.

The grounds at Auberge are equally as luxurious as the rooms. A full sized tennis court visible from our balcony, a “La Plage” pool, state of the art fitness room, and even an outdoor sculpture gallery speckled throughout a 33 acre hillside olive grove complement the natural environment.

Just a short distance from Auberge, a number of world-class wineries relax and stretch across acres of land. Our visit to the region in the fall turned out to be fortuitous as numerous vineyards allow visitors to observe their harvesting activities. Plus, the area is less congested than in the summer months, which means less traffic, an important element in a place with only a handful of main roads.

One winery not to miss is Sterling Vineyards in Calistoga. A trip in and of itself, Sterling’s winery experience begins with a unique aerial tram ride up the hillside to an interactive, self-guided tour and tasting room. As the kind of person who regularly abstains from such aerial jaunts, I felt much more at ease on the descent (a few sips of wine spurred new found courage).

Situated at the intersection of Rutherford Road at St. Helena Highway is a hidden gem, the Elizabeth Spencer Tasting Room. In a modern, yet intimate setting, we enjoyed a pleasant talk with the server, tasted some delightful wines, and took home a great bottle of rosé.

A good way to unwind after a long day of trekking between wineries is an hour or two (or four!) at the Auberge Spa. Featuring a suite for couples or friends, as well as individual treatment rooms, total privacy is the theme. The spa offers a private tanning deck, a private heated pool and a floor-to ceiling panoramic view of Napa Valley. Preparations used in the spa treatments feature house-infused oils, and lemon balm, as well as calendula, rosemary, and other herbs cultivated by the therapists in the spa’s garden.

Some say the primary reason to visit the resort is the restaurant. After all, the complex was originally constructed as a restaurant only, and it is true that a meal in the dining room or on the wraparound terrace remains a must-do while visiting Napa. There, a decadent feast can be arranged to satisfy any palate. One might try the osetra caviar, toasted brioche with crème fraîche for starters, followed by the wild mushroom tart, onion confit and rosemary, or a cup of lobster consommé with sautéed John Dory, ratatouille and saffron sauce. If that doesn’t bust your stomach, top it off with the butterscotch parfait with pumpkin pudding, candied pecans and a Chantilly cream.

Eventually it all comes back to wine and Auberge features the valley’s most comprehensive wine list, some 1300 selections assembled by head sommelier Kris Margerum to perfectly complement the menu. Organized by grape varietals first, then by region, the list features selections from wine growing regions around the world, naturally with a particular focus on the Napa Valley.

Having dipped into the pool, dined by the moon, and even danced on our own private terrace after a few glasses of sparkling wine, we thought we had experienced all that the Auberge hillside had to offer. Then, on our last day we discovered another treasure. The Rutherford Hill winery sat atop the hillside just a few yards above the resort. Even though it was near closing time and our check-out was first thing the next morning, we resolved to soldier on for one last wine flight, brain cells be damned.

“So where are you two staying?” questioned the tasting room employee, divvying out a fun port-and- blueberries taste test.

My companion, far too used to our temporary lifestyle, replied, “Oh, we’re just over at Auberge.”

The server disappeared from view to return moments later with a rare bottle from their reserve stash for us to sample.

Such is life at Auberge du Soleil.

Auberge du Soleil
180 Rutherford Hill Road
Rutherford, California
Tel: (707) 963-1211
www.aubergedusoleil.com

-Written by Matthew J. O’Neill (matthew.j.oneill@hotmail.com)

Matthew J. O’Neill lives in Santa Monica, California.

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