In the 18ème arrondissement, the bohemian lifestyle, gritty side streets, and crowded souvenir shops meld into the unique experience that is Montmartre. Since the international success of the movie Amélie, the neighborhood has become increasingly popular for tourists, which makes it increasingly difficult to find a good place to eat. Fortunately, if you follow the locals along the wandering Rue des Abesses, still under the cool white gaze of the Sacré Coeur yet somewhat removed from the rows of souvenir shops, you will stumble upon La Mascotte. This lively neighborhood bar opened in 1889, the same year as the Eiffel Tower and the Moulin Rouge.

The classic brasserie first appears to be a fish market due to an outdoor cart heaped high with oysters, clams, and other seafood. In actuality, this is the take-away cart, and the source of La Mascotte’s specialty — a sensuous array of shellfish piled high on a round platter. By early evening, the brightly-lit bar is swarming with colorful locals, who all appear to know each other. A wide variety of aperitifs, wines, and liqueurs is available, along with small plates of oysters or charcuterie. The regulars drink and regale for hours before drifting back to the dining room for dinner no earlier than 8:00 p.m. Depending on your French skills and your tolerance for cigarette smoke, you may enjoy spending an hour or two sidling up to the bar to catch up on the latest neighborhood gossip.

Past the bustling bar area lays the art-deco dining room. Rich red banquettes lined with small white-linen tables extend along either wall, with larger round tables in the center of the dining area. Mirrors create the illusion of a larger space, and polished wood beams lend a cozy feeling. The atmosphere is clean and cheerful, and the service was impeccable. While neither the menu nor the service is available in English, our tuxedoed server was patient and more than willing to assist with the food and wine selection.

For over a hundred years, La Mascotte has cooked classic French food using local ingredients. Choices include escargots, sausages, salmon mousse, and steak tartare, but seafood is definitely the chef’s forte. My sole was perfectly filleted, lightly sauced with lemon butter and served with rich, buttery mashed potatoes. The food cannot be described as innovative, but I greatly appreciate simple food done well – particularly when paired with an excellent sauvignon blanc. Plus, the delightfully unusual praline soup dessert made up for any lack of originality in the main course. Plates averaged 15€-23€, and a three-course prix-fixe menu is available for 31€. The reasonable prices allow you to enjoy a luxurious meal without blowing your budget.

During the warmer months, sidewalk seating is available, offering an exceptional vantage point to engage in that popular Parisian pastime — people-watching. The bar also fills up during rugby matches and on Sundays, when Florence comes to play the accordion during the Marché des Abesses. The authenticity of the space, the staff, and, most of all, the clientele make this classic brasserie an excellent escape from the tourist scene. La Mascotte is Montmartre at its best; a jaunt into a nostalgic era that is not to be missed.

La Mascotte
52 Rue des Abbesses
75018 Paris, France
Tel: 01 46 06 28 15
www.la-mascotte-montmartre.com

-Written by Blair Baker (blairlb@gmail.com)

Blair Baker is a native Texan, an avid Francophile, and a picky eater. She would love to spend the rest of her life in a villa in Provence, except that she could not survive without Tex-Mex cuisine. At the moment she resides in Washington, D.C., where she has been known to dabble with oil paints, buy expensive lattés, and embarrass herself in front of important people.