The exterior of Chapeau! is so unassuming and humble, marked only by a hand-written sign and white drapes, that you will probably circle around the block a few times before stumbling upon the restaurant. Likewise, the interior has little aesthetically to offer guests, with unadorned yellow walls and tables crammed on top of one another.

But, in spite of the restaurant’s inconvenient locale and nondescript decor, Chapeau! is packed nightly and with good reason. The restaurant’s loyal patrons, including noted industry folks, come here night after night to experience the European sense of hospitality and the lovingly crafted French bistro fare from Chef Phillipe Gardelle.

Upon our arrival, Chef Gardelle kissed me on both cheeks and gave my guest a hearty handshake, as if we were old friends from his native France, as opposed to first-time guests. Given the restaurant’s miniscule confines in which you bump elbows with the diner at the table next to you and hear the din of laughter in the air, I felt as if I had dropped by a friend’s intimate dinner party.

Leisurely yet attentive, service is similar to what you would find in a Parisian café. Guests never feel rushed and can linger as long as they desire, yet the glasses of wine and baskets of warm, flaky French bread always remain full.

My guest and I opted for the three-course prix fixe menu offered for just $38.00 – a steal in San Francisco. Craving something warm and soothing, I ordered the French Onion Soup, which proved the perfect antidote to the brisk fall weather, deeply caramelized and laden with layer after layer of Emmental. The Fried Sweetbreads were equally pleasing, heightened by a touch of truffle oil.

Unfortunately, the beloved French dish Cassoulet was unavailable for the evening, so I turned to the Roasted Monkfish, which was firm yet delicate, though slightly overpowered by the accompanying Butternut Squash Risotto and Lobster Sauce. The savory Bacon-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin tasted as decadent as you would imagine from the name, served with a hearty Chestnut Puree.

We managed to save room for the restaurant’s signature dessert, the Chocolate Soufflé, oozing with rich chocolate and topped with a dollop of vanilla ice cream.

When we left the restaurant, after receiving a lavish farewell from Chef Garelle, it was pouring rain outside with nary a cab in sight in the quiet neighborhood. However, our server took it upon himself to run three blocks — sans umbrella — to flag down a taxi, so as to ensure that we arrived home safely and soundly. This gesture reflects the great love that Chef Garelle and his team infuse into this charming restaurant, making for a memory that is sure to delight again and again. Chapeau! provides its guests with the type of undeniably French warmth and congeniality that one would have to span halfway across the globe to encounter elsewhere.

Chapeau!
1408 Clement Street
San Francisco, CA 94118
Tel: (415) 750-9787

- Written by Kristin J. Viola (kjviola@gmail.com)