London’s East End has long been the home of immigrant groups, from the French Huguenot Protestants in the seventeenth century, to the Irish in the eighteenth, to Ashkenazi Jews in the nineteenth. In the last century, Bangladeshi immigrants have flocked to the area, and a walk down the area’s famed Brick Lane, home to countless curry restaurants, could convince anyone that their greatest contribution has been the popularization of curry as the new national dish of Britain.

I had the good fortune to visit a Brick Lane curry house on a recent trip to London, and was thrilled to find a delicious and relatively inexpensive alternative to the sandwich shops and gastropubs that my limited budget allowed. The memory of the rich scent of curry pouring out of every restaurant I passed on Brick Lane still lingered in the back of my mind upon my return to the states; a popular curry had even been served on the flight home. So, when I happened upon the Brick Lane Curry House in the East Village, I couldn’t resist.

Brick Lane sits on a stretch of Sixth Street inundated with Indian cuisine, but manages to stand out with its distinctly Anglo-Indian menu that features more curries than tandoori dishes. The restaurant itself is simply yet stylishly decorated with framed photographs of famous spots throughout London, including a complete map of the Underground where expatriates can proudly point out “their” stops. I pointed at mine with nostalgia, and hoped the food would live up to my memories of London. Despite its location three thousand miles away from the original, this Brick Lane did not disappoint.

My favorite of the starters is the aloo samosa, which includes two generous, flaky pastries filled with dense, mildly spiced potatoes with peas sprinkled throughout. The samosa is also available in keema form, which contains minced lamb. The menu offers a wide variety of delicious tandoori options, such as the classic chicken tikka tandoori, which includes chicken kebabs in three different marinades, and delicious kebabs reminiscent of East London street vendors. My personal recommendation, however, are the curries, which hit every mark on the spice spectrum and went beautifully with the accompanying complimentary bowl of long grain basmati rice, flecked with fresh green peas. Naan bread, simultaneously pillowy and crispy, makes a perfect side dish, especially with the spicier curries. My personal favorite is the garlic naan, lightly brushed with butter and garlic; say yes when your waiter offers you some mango chutney to go with it. All curry dishes are described in terms of the type of curry itself, and can be made with a range of proteins including chicken, lamb, goat, fish, shrimp, and paneer; many can also be prepared with tofu or vegetables.

For the more timid diners (or those who prefer to get through dinner without breaking a sweat), go with the classic tikka masala, a rich and creamy tomato-based curry flavored with fengureek leaves, currently hailed as the national dish of England. Another favorite is the saag, a thick sauce made from finely minced spinach and onions and flavored with fengureek leaves and a touch of spice. The slightly spicier balti, an herb-infused, slow-cooked curry of tomatoes, onions, and green bell peppers, satisfies the craving for something a little different and richly flavored but remains a fairly mild dish. For fans of balti looking to be a bit more daring, I recommend the jalfrezi, a spicier tomato-based curry also containing the familiar onions and bell peppers.

The more ambitious, thrill-seeking diners will gravitate towards dishes like the chile-accented madras and the daredevil favorite vindaloo, which features potatoes cooked in a piquant blend of ground spices. For the truly valiant, however, Brick Lane features the phaal curry. The menu description says nothing about the nature of its flavor, only noting that this “excruciatingly hot” dish contains “more pain and sweat than flavor.” Flavor is likely not a concern for anyone willing to order the phaal; the menu also states that the restaurant cannot be held responsible for “any physical or emotional damage” incurred from consuming the dish. Those who venture to ask for it must state a verbal disclaimer to that end. Anyone able to finish the fiery curry, however, receives a bottle of beer on the house (and my respect) and is featured on the restaurant’s website under the “phaal” of fame.

On a milder note, Brick Lane also features a respectable variety of vegan dishes, each of which is clearly labeled as such. On one recent trip with a vegan dining companion, our waiter was very helpful in answering questions about which dishes to order. Service, while always friendly, can sometimes be slow, even when the restaurant is mostly empty. The wine list offers a diverse selection, including bottles from France, Italy, South Africa, and Australia in addition to several domestic choices. A selection of beer, including Indian brands, is available and can go a long way in tempering the spicier dishes.

Despite my few gripes about occasional slow service, this East Village answer to the curry houses of London’s East End has convinced me that dishes reminiscent of those across the pond do not require a plane ticket. On one recent visit, as I perused the menu for a new dish to order, I found myself gravitating toward that old favorite I had so enjoyed in London: the chicken tikka masala. From the curry houses to the tiny foil-wrapped tray of my airline meal, its appeal transcends cultural boundaries and is right up there with bangers and mash as one of London’s defining flavors. Giving in to the temptation of the familiar, I once again reveled in the goodness of classic simplicity and was instantly transported down the memory lane known as Brick — right here in New York.

Brick Lane Curry House
306-308 East 6th Street
New York, NY
Tel: (212) 979-2900
www.bricklanecurryhouse.com

-Reviewed by Elise Stern (estern@fordham.edu)

Elise Stern is a college student and aspiring food writer living in New York City.