Antagonize Your Appetite at Aquitaine
Written on December 24, 2007
It’s no coincidence that I happily stumbled upon Aquitaine Bar à Vin Bistrot situated southwest of the city in Boston’s South End. Aquitaine also happens to be a region of Southwest France. The region, which encompasses the famous Bordeaux wine-producing area, is located between two major waterways from which the majority of the mussels in the country are harvested. The restaurant, commonly referred to simply as “Aquitaine” by its most frequent diners, boasts an extensive wine list and claims to be the South End’s “Best Neighborhood Bistro.”
I knew I came to a special place when diners walked passed me and said, “Oh look, we’re sitting at our favorite table.” Not only did this indicate frequent content diners, but it also suggested the staff remembered the little things.
And it was certainly the little things that made my Aquitaine experience. To start, our server presented the restaurant’s version of “Cheez-Its,” small puffs of sweet dough wrapped around a salty piece of gruyere cheese. I hadn’t even realized I finished my cheese puff when I caught myself staring at the restaurant’s décor. Dim lighting and minimal background music complemented the large white curtains draped across the restaurant’s wide windows and floor to ceiling mahogany panels. In the holiday spirit, white lights lined the curtains and doorway, offering extra illumination for me to read the large chalkboard menus leaning against the restaurant’s walls, dwarfing the people focused on their dishes sitting beneath them.
Speaking of dishes, Executive Chef Seth Woods creates very tasty ones. His Aquitaine menu resembles that of an innovative, yet authentic, French bistro with robust flavors and textures coupled with subtle spices that round out each dish.
Keeping with tradition, Woods offered a classic Soupe a L’oignon with a perfectly drenched crouton smothered by melted gruyere and several different salads, including my favorite, a warm beet salad with melted goat cheese and walnuts sprinkled throughout. The flavors engulfed my mouth while the smells from the kitchen further stimulated my appetite. Good thing the service at Aquitaine was top notch, and our entrees followed just in time.
While every entree on the menu impressed me, Wednesday’s Plat du Jour jumped out. I could not have been happier dining at Aquitaine on a Wednesday, which allowed me to enjoy a pan seared skate served with saffron mussels, flageolet beans, garlic confit, fennel and Kalamata olives. The fish was tender and sweet and acted as a buffer against the tangy olives and fragrant mussels. The saffron infused mussels did not overwhelm my palette, just left it wanting more. I thought the highlight of the dish was the crunch from the beans, which not only offered texture with each bite, but also gave the fish a substantial base upon which to rest. All the ingredients were bound together by flavor from the saffron infused oil and juices from the fish and olives.
We could not resist ordering the Filet au Poivre, which was perfectly dusted with cracked peppercorns and served over Cognac cream, grilled scallions and a creamy potato gratin. The filet had a bite to it from the peppercorns, but les pommes au gratin, cooked to a smooth texture, successfully tamed any outstanding spice left on the tongue.
I also tasted the Roasted Lamb Porterhouse Chops, accompanied by chick pea frites, zucchinis and a pepper coulis. Once again, the meat was juicy and buttery while the friend chick pea sides had a kick to them, all drenched to perfection in the pepper coulis.
And because there’s always room for dessert, I tried the Profiteroles, which were crunchy on the outside and moist on the inside. The smoothness of the ice cream lined between the biscuits paralleled that of the chocolate sauce spilling onto the plate. Even better, I got to enjoy three of them.
Before Aquitaine, I had yet to experience a satisfactory dining experience in Boston. Whether I have been going to the wrong places or haven’t spent enough time in the city, I now have a recommendation I am proud to give. Rarely do you experience a restaurant in which both the service and cuisine leaves you wanting more. Aquitaine achieves that desire flawlessly.
Aquitaine
569 Tremont St.
Boston, MA 02118
Tel: (617) 424-8577
www.aquitaineboston.com
-Reviewed by Karla L. Yeh (karla.yeh@gmail.com)
Karla Yeh’s favorite things to do are try new foods and meet new people. Other than writing, she is passionate about fine dining. This came about when she realized that some restaurants actually created dishes almost as tasty as those her parents taught her to cook. She challenges any restaurant to eliminate ‘almost’ from the last sentence.
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Filed in: V Departures.
