Chilled champagne, congratulatory balloons, a warmly lit cottage, and a plate of tea sandwiches—these are the things that awaited us when my husband and I arrived late at night at the Nisbet Plantation Beach Club on Nevis, a tiny island in the lower Antilles. Exhausted after a day-long journey that involved three separate flights—Nevis is unequivocally worth the trip but it’s undeniably a chore to get to—we were instantly swaddled in what would prove to be Nisbet’s constant pampering. We popped the champagne, listened to the tropical insects singing outside the screens, and toasted to a superb choice of honeymoon locales.

The Nisbet Plantation, built in the 1700s, is one of Nevis’s former sugar plantations that have been converted into luxury resorts. There are only 38 guest rooms at the Nisbet, spread out over lush, palm-tree-lined grounds in 16 cottages that face the beach. This plantation was once the home of Fanny Nisbet, Lord Horatio Nelson’s wife, in whose honor the resort is named.

The Nisbet Plantation is an ideal spot for a honeymoon for a lot of reasons, one of which is that it’s not overcrowded with honeymooners. For couples who are less than excited about the all-you-can-drink, fraternity-style debauchery and manufactured romance of notorious honeymoon spots in Jamaica or the Bahamas, Nevis is the perfect way to have your Caribbean cake and eat it, too—in privacy and calm. The Nisbet crowd is decidedly older—more fifty-something empty-nesters than twenty-something lovebirds—and focused on good food and books rather than swim-up bars and nightlife.

This is for the best, because if you’re looking for nightlife on Nevis, you’ll be out of luck; indeed, one of the beauties of Nevis is that there is virtually nothing to do. The point of the island is the champagne-colored sand, the clear blue water, the tropical breeze rustling the wide palm fronds overhead. Our days began with breakfast overlooking the pool, where the warm, salty breeze helped us wake up as we perused the breakfast menu. The eggs at the Nisbet were fluffier than any I’ve ever had, the omelets were perfectly cooked, and the hearty selections—almond-encrusted French toast, lox and chorizo on a bagel—saw us through till dinnertime.

At the Nisbet, the long afternoons we spent sprawled with books on chaise lounges (protected from the powerful sun by the resort’s hut-like canopies) were interrupted only by a resort waiter delivering glasses of ice water or taking our order for a Ting n’ Sting, an island specialty made from grapefruit soda and a locally made rum. Afternoon tea is included in room rates and includes a delicious plate of tea sandwiches and pastries.

You can break up the days by going snorkeling—a trip with Captain Lenox on a catamaran, which leaves from the Four Seasons resort on the other side of the island, is not-to-miss ($50/person for a three-hour trip; arrange with the Nisbet concierge). While you’re there, you can visit the beach bar Sunshine’s for a Killer Bee—a secret-recipe drink notorious around the island for its strength.

Yearning for adventure on the road? You can arrange with the Nisbet to rent a car and drive around the island, ogling the lovely tropical foliage, wild goats and pigs, and—if you’re lucky—a green vervet monkey (just remember to drive on the left—Nevis is a former British colony). History buffs will want to visit the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton in Charlestown, where a small museum ($5 admission) chronicles Hamilton’s history on the island as well as the history of the island itself. But honeymoons—and Nevis—are made for pampering, so don’t miss a couple’s massage at the Palms, the Nisbet’s spa.

So what’s the nightlife like at the Nisbet? It starts with dinner at the resort’s Great House, a lovely, fully air-conditioned restaurant inside what used to be the plantation owners’ home. This is a formal affair, and you’re expected to dress for it—sundresses or dress pants for women, long pants and collared shirts for men. Shorts and men’s sandals are not permitted. There’s something very satisfying about preening and primping after a day on the sand, and the effort is worth it. Patterson, the Nisbet’s charming and talkative maitre d’, will greet you by name and inquire about your day as he settles you at a white-linen-covered table inside the house or outside on the screened-in porch. The three-course menu changes each night, with appetizers ranging from sushi-grade eel grilled with seaweed to conch stew; entrees that always include a “Taste of Nevis” featuring local ingredients like curried lamb and fresh seafood; and desserts including ice creams, cakes, and cheese.

Thursday nights, the Nisbet Plantation comes alive as visitors from other resorts as well as locals gather for the weekly seafood barbeque—a lavish buffet featuring an array of salads, fresh-caught seafood grilled as you wait, and meats including steak and spare ribs. After dinner, an island band plays music for dancing under the stars—lucky stars you’ll thank for every moment you get to spend at the Nisbet.

Room prices vary by room type and season; they range from $300-$600/night, including breakfast, afternoon tea, and dinner. U.S. dollars and credit cards are accepted throughout Nevis.

Nisbet Plantation Beach Club
Nevis Island, Caribbean
Tel: (800) 742-6008
www.nisbetplantation.com

- Reviewed by Margo Orlando Littell (margo.orlando@gmail.com)

Margo Orlando Littell is a freelance writer living in Sacramento, California. She has lived in Barcelona and traveled widely throughout Eastern and Western Europe, and is currently working on a novel. She earned an MFA from Columbia.