It sits on an unassuming avenue in the historic San Telmo neighborhood of Buenos Aires. Walk too quickly or space out for a second and you’re sure to miss it.

1890 B&B blends in perfectly on the block with its stately, wrought iron gate set in a 19th-century building on a quiet street called Calle Humberto Primero. But 1890 B&B has something special. In fact, it has a lot of things that are special and well worth the bargain $90 USD per night to stay there.

The Argentine economy suffered a major crash in 2001, putting one American dollar on equal footing with three Argentine pesos. But even as the economy continues recovering, 1890 B&B is a must for travelers, even if the nightly rates doubled.

Our research told my boyfriend and I that San Telmo was the heart of Buenos Aires, home to the city’s tango roots and some of its oldest and most photographed churches. Being less tourist-heavy - save for the most popular milongas, or venues, which showcase tango shows - it seemed like a natural choice for our home base in Argentina’s capital city. Maybe it was the charming, polite e-mails assuring us we’d have a driver, not a cab, pick us up from Ezeiza International Airport and bring us to their front door. Or maybe it’s the outpouring of personal touches without the potentially nagging presence some may dislike about the bed-and-breakfast experience.

We stayed in the smallest of the three rooms, all of which are furnished in a modern, elegant style featuring a private bathroom, air conditioning and central heating, king-size beds, Egyptian cotton linens, cable television and an in-room safe. The Jackson Pollack-adorned room with a high, wood-slatted ceiling was tastefully accented with vases and lamps I could see in my own home. After all, one of my personal goals in travel is to see what it’s like to be a local: how it feels to live in the neighborhood, shop in the shops, and eat in the restaurants. We couldn’t have asked for a better home base.

Breakfast of fruit, coffee, tea, juice, toast and panqueque con dulce de leche (a crepe filled with the country’s characteristic, caramel-flavored dessert topping) was served for three hours each morning. Even on days we were leaving at odd hours - to take a 5 a.m. bus to wine country, for example - they were kind, and sent us off with coffee and tea.

Free high-speed Internet access is available through their own laptop, set out for use at all hours in a lobby that looks like a cozy art gallery. We took advantage of the perk to purchase ferry tickets to nearby Uruguay, and our native Spanish-speaking hosts were more than happy to help us translate words we couldn’t find in our pocket dictionary.

The owners and operators - a mother, her two daughters and their significant others - clearly have pride in their city and the knowledge to show it off to eager tourists. They are armed with a wealth of artistic knowledge for anyone who would like to purchase local art or visit nearby galleries popping up everywhere, some right outside their front door. Printed itineraries detailing, to the intersection, the best, most interesting routes through town, are available each day.

1890 B&B is perfect for a mellow couple on a romantic trip, providing a taste of Europe that Buenos Aires has become famous for, without the cost.

1890 B&B
Humberto Primo 843
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Tel: +54-11-43001890
www.buenosaires1890byb.com.ar

-Reviewed by Tara Ramroop (tara.ramroop@gmail.com)