No trip to Istanbul, the cultural capital of Turkey, is complete without treating yourself to the full works at one of the many historical Turkish baths dotted around the ancient city. Whether you are traveling first class, or backpacking around the world, a visit to a hamam is an exotic, invigorating and unforgettable experience which will not only give you an insight into the secrets of Turkish culture, but will also demonstrate the fact that, since the day you were born, your skin has never been truly clean.

Enter the camekan; a central courtyard lined with changing cubicles surrounding an ornamental fountain, and step through the hamam entrance, and you will find yourself in an entirely different world. Steam rises from the slick marble floor, filling the air with romantic visions of times past. The whole room smells of fragrant soap and aromatic massage oils. Warmth permeates your skin like a mother’s enveloping embrace.

Naked flesh abounds, sleek and sweaty, partially wrapped in flimsy checkered pestamals; a cloth worn around the body like a sarong. Random bodies stretch out lazily on the göbektaski or naval stone; a heated marble platform in the center of the room. On occasion, after a particularly good massage, snores echo throughout the hararet; the high-domed, octagonal steam room, its rounded ceiling punctuated with opaque oculi allowing soft beams of diffused sunlight to penetrate the clouds of steam. The sound of cool water splashing from elaborately crafted and ornately designed basins dotted around the walls adds harmony to the atmosphere of total relaxation.

Scantily clad attendants clomp around on the marble floor in their nalins; slip-on clogs, vigorously lathering steamed limbs with olive oil soap, scraping and scrubbing with a kese; an abrasive mitt made from camel hair, to remove several layers of dead skin and possibly even a couple of layers you were still using. Nimble fingers tweak and squeeze taut muscles, rubbing in invigorating massage oils, melting away stress and weariness. Starting from the base of the neck and working every inch of muscle from the top of the spine to the tips of the toes, your skin will be pounded and pummeled to within a millimeter of its life. Afterwards, simply roll over and have your body washed from head to toe once more, making you feel three years old again. Wrapped in fresh soft towels you are brought to the sogukluk; the cool room, to rest, dry off, and dress before you partake of a bracing glass of Turkish tea, a robust coffee or a cool refreshment. After such a luxurious bath, you can’t help but feel like a million dollars.

The tradition of public bathing has been known across Anatolia since time began. But the emergence of the Turkish hamam immortalized the ritual, making it an integral part of every day Turkish life and culture. In Central Asia, their original homeland, Turks used steam baths which were then known as manchu, a custom brought about the by the lack of baths or running water in the family home. Bringing their Asian culture with them as they moved westward, the roving Turks merged their manchu tradition with the local public bath culture they found as they traversed ancient Anatolia. Hence the birth of the Turkish bathhouse as we know it today; a Middle Eastern variant of the steam bath, or a wet relative of the Scandinavian-style sauna.

Turkish society embraced the ritual of the hamam with vigor. The hamam evolved not only into the perfect place to cleanse body and soul, but public bathhouses also became a popular place to gather socially. In fact, at one time they were so popular that there were more than 14,000 Turkish baths in Istanbul. In the fifteenth century, the lavishly designed accoutrements of the hamam were symbols of status: hand-carved wooden clogs delicately inlaid with mother of pearl, plush towels intricately embroidered with gold thread, ornate bowls, made of silver, bronze or copper and engraved with detailed reliefs, for pouring water over the head.

Right from the beginning, hamams were designed with separate sections for men and women, and anyone caught trespassing on the wrong side was instantly sentenced to death. In the privacy of their own bathhouses, men discussed news, politics, sports, and women, while their wives scoped out suitable partners for unwed sons, and new brides gleaned explicit details regarding the secret intimacies of marriage as the graceful domes echoed the resulting laughter. Nowadays, in segregated hamams, it’s customary and acceptable for men and women to strip off. Unlike the high prices of western-style spas, the traditional Turkish bath with its sumptuous lathering and massage services offers century old relaxation at a modest price.

Let me take you on an armchair tour of Istanbul’s historical hamams and we’ll also peek inside a few modern bathhouses in some of the city’s five-star hotels. We’ll even check out a palatial hotel in the heart of the old city where you can enjoy a luxurious hamam in the privacy your own hotel room when you find yourself so tempted by the idea of being scrubbed and rubbed from top to bottom that you’ll be booking flights to Istanbul before you’ve finished reading about it:

Çemberlitas Hamami
Vezirhan Caddesi No: 8
Çemberlitas, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 522 7974
www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr

Built by the famous Architect Sinan in 1584, Çemberlitas Hamami was a popular bathhouse amongst the Ottoman Sultans. Considered one of the best preserved examples of 16th century Ottoman architecture, the entire hamam has recently been restored to its former glory. Sections for men and women are separated by a long hallway. The newly enlarged women’s section now houses a brand new fitness center and solarium. Discounts apply to students and groups.

Cagaloglu Hamami
Sultanahmet, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 522 2424
www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr

Since Sultan Mahmut I had this superb specimen of Ottoman architecture constructed in 1714, this hamam has seen the bare bottoms of luminaries such as Franz Liszt, King Edward VIII, Kaiser Wilhelm, Florence Nightingale, Tony Curtis and Brian May and, more recently, the perky naked cheeks of Cameron Diaz. Just a few years back, the bathhouse even scored itself a bit part in Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom. Cagaloglu Hamami has separate sections for men and women and boasts The Old Marble Café-Bar which is almost as famous for its cosy winter fireplace parties as the hamam is for its refreshing steam bath and massage.

Galatasaray Hamami
Turnacibasi Sokak No: 24
Galatasaray, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 252 4242; +90 212 249 4342
www.galatasarayhamami.com

One of Istanbul’s most popular hamams among local and international businessmen and celebrities, Galatasaray bathhouse was first built in 1481 by Sultan Bayezid II. It underwent extensive restoration under the Ottoman reign and was modernised again in 1965 without spoiling any of its original architecture and charm. The hamam can be rented for the day for groups of twenty or more.

Süleymaniye Hamami
Mimar Sinan Caddesi No: 20
Süleymaniye, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 519 5569
www.suleymaniyehamami.com

Süleymaniye Hamami is one of the sparkling diamonds in Sinan’s architectural crown. It has recently been restored and local rumours abound that waters drawn from the well inside the hamam can heal Hepatitis A. This hamam is a rare bathhouse in that men and women can bath together, meaning that getting naked is not an option. Preserve your modesty at all times by keeping your pestamal wrapped around your body and you won’t be in danger of offending Turkish sensibilities. It is well worth a visit just to experience the sheer magnificence of the building.

Sofular Hamami
Sofular Caddesi No: 66
Aksaray, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 521 3759

One of the much lesser-known and far less touristy bathhouses located a little way off the beaten tourist track in suburban Istanbul, this 16th century hamam features two-story dressing cabins and an elegant pool with an ornate fountain. There are separate sections for men and women. Tea, coffee and soft drinks are available.

Gedikpasa Hamami
Beyazit, Istanbul

Across from the Beyazit entrance of Grand Bazaar and approximately 250 metres down the road, this 15th century hamam is one of the most famous Ottoman built Turkish baths dating back to 1475. Architecturally distinctive from other hamams, it’s a double Turkish bath consisting of separate men’s and women’s sections.

Aga Hamami
Turnacibasi Sokak No: 66
Beyoglu, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 249 5027

Beautifully restored historical hamam with a large sauna and cabins for two on the upper floors that resemble boxes at the opera house. While this bathhouse is in a fantastic location and the price is very reasonable, it’s important to be a little street-wise when you visit. Television appearances by the owner disputing his workers’ licentious reputation for their uninvited groping (of men) haven’t discouraged his staff from perpetuating it.

Büyük Hamami
Potinciler Sokak No: 22
Kasimpasa, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 253 4229

Another of Sinan’s architectural gems, Büyük Hamami was built in 1533 nearby the banks of the Golden Horn. Hidden amongst the side streets of modern suburbia, it’s definitely well away from the beaten tourist track, but worth the effort of hunting it down. The segregated hamam has a brand new sauna and private changing rooms.

Üsküdar Çinili Hamami
Üsküdar, Istanbul
Tel: +90 216 553 1593; +90 216 334 9710
www.cinili.com.tr.tc

Named for its ornate tiles, this 15th century hamam is the oldest in Üsküdar, built in 1640 during the reign of Sultan Ibrahim I. It’s also known as Eski Hamam, meaning Old Hamam, even though its original name is Sifa Hamami which means Cure Hamam. If you happen to get lost in Üsküdar trying to find this bathhouse, ask for directions using one or all of the above-mentioned names. There are separate sections for men and women and there is a small café to partake of tea, coffee and soft drinks.

Haseki Sultan Hamami

One of the most spectacular hamams in Istanbul is undoubtedly the Haseki Sultan Hamami, situated between Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet Park. Commissioned by Sultan Süleyman for his beloved wife Roxelana, it was built by Sinan in 1557 on a symmetrical plan that provided two separate sections of identically domed halls. The hamam was decommissioned when it was discovered that the elongated layout resulted in excessive heat loss. The Haseki Sultan Hamami is now an immaculately restored exhibition center for Dösim (a fair-price store run by the Turkish Cultural and Tourism Ministry) which is used for textile and carpet displays.

Most of Istanbul’s five-star hotels have Turkish bath facilities in settings that resemble the traditional style hamam so favored by Ottoman royalty. These bathhouses have state of the art amenities and are noted for their pristine cleanliness, impeccable service and, accordingly, five-star prices. But what the hey, don’t you deserve to treat yourself to a little five-star luxury at least once in your life?

The Marmara Hotel
Taksim Meydani
Taksim, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 251 4696
www.themarmarahotels.com/istanbul/overview.php

The Marmara hamam reflects traditional Turkish architecture and has all modern amenities. To make bookings for the hamam, sauna and jacuzzi facilities, please contact the hotel.

Swissotel The Bosphorus
Bayildim Caddesi No: 2
Maçka, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 326 1100
www.swissotel.com

Also a modern hamam in a five-star star hotel with sauna and jacuzzi facilities. Reservations are required. This bath is frequented by women during the day while businessmen tend to come down for a scrub after office hours. It is open to hotel guests, members and those who come for massage at the spa.

Polat Renaissance Hotel
Sahil Caddesi No: 2
Yesilyurt, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 414 1800
www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/istrn-renaissance-polat-istanbul-hotel

Designed in the same way as a traditional Turkish bath, the hamam at this hotel is highly recommended for those who wish to enjoy a luxurious bathing experience with modern amenities. Just as tradition dictates, men’s and women’s sections are separate. The bathhouse is open to women until 15:00 and after that, it is open for men. It is possible for groups of 10-15 to reserve small private sections.

Sultanahmet Sarayi Hotel
Torun Sokak No: 19
Sultanahmet, Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 458 0460
www.sultanahmetpalace.com

Palace comfort in the center of old city with a private miniature hamam in every room. Enjoy the unforgettable experience of sitting naked on a hot marble bench, with ornate marble basins to fill with steaming water and a copper bowl to pour water over your head and shoulders.

- Reviewed by Roni Askey-Doran (info@roniaskeydoran.com)

With 12 years of experience in the international media industry, Roni Askey-Doran is currently freelancing for publications in the USA, UK, Australia and Canada; regularly providing text and high-resolution photographs on a number of subjects.

As a photo-journalist, Roni has covered a range of topics around the world including news, current affairs, business, finance, real estate, arts and culture, entertainment, travel, food, fashion, human interest stories and also the completely bizarre. Roni travels frequently around Europe, Asia and the Middle East and takes a particular interest in the most interesting and unusual aspects of each culture.