There are two ways to get to Hali’imaile General Store. The most common, and perhaps the most sensible, is by car or motorcycle. The second, as I obstinately accomplished, is by bicycle. I left the small sea level town of Paia on Maui around 10:30 a.m., giving myself enough time to climb 1,200 feet up the fertile slopes of Haleakala, the largest of Maui’s two volcanoes.

I wanted to arrive at Hali’imaile General Store a good half-hour before hungry droves of sightseeing tourists started lining up at the door. The climb up to Hali’imaile was a good one, despite the sweat dripping off my nose and down my back. I kept stealing quick glances over my shoulder to take in the beautiful spread of turquoise waters and ragged hills that make up the North Shore. Drivers headed for Hali’imaile should give themselves enough time to stop and snap a photo or just enjoy the view.

Hali’imaile General Store is not actually a general store. To put it modestly, the restaurant is a golden egg among Hawaiian cuisine. Chef and owner Beverly Gannon and her husband opened the restaurant in 1988 without any previous restaurant experience. She now boasts several acclaimed awards including a nomination for the James Beard award for Best Chef in northwest Hawaii. The Store is also ranked as one of Gourmet’s top ten restaurants and has been mentioned in publications such as Travel and Leisure, Condé Nast Traveler, Food and Wine Magazine, Bon Appetite, Gourmet, and National Geographic Traveler.

As I peddled my way into the small gravel parking lot, I took in the yellow edifice with a wrap around wooden deck and large front windows that look out onto the street. I was amusingly reminded of an old, American West, cowboy town market. Inside, the décor is tastefully done in an island inspired theme with paper mâché fish hanging over the full bar and floral paintings decorating the walls. Devoid of diners, I took a seat at the bar feeling very underdressed in my sweaty tank and soccer shorts and ordered a guava and lilikoi lemonade, which went down way too fast.

The front dining room contains just the right number of tables and chairs, making it not too crowded yet intimate at the same time. An exhibition kitchen displays chefs at work and emits an amazing aroma of smells that intensified the longer I stayed. Shelves laden with ceramics and other gifts provide a colorful touch and further entice travelers to stay and dine. A second dining room in the back is lined with bamboo paneling and is quieter and more suited for a formal dinner meal.

Hungry visitors started arriving just before noon and the flux didn’t ebb until after I left. Sweating glasses of cold water accompanied by fresh sourdough rolls wrapped in white napkins promptly arrived at each table by friendly servers.

Bev Gannon describes her creations as “eclectic American with Asian overtones.” For lunch, try Bev’s Famous Crab Pizza, a recipe that she refuses to part with, even in her recent Hali’imaile General Store cookbook. The Sashimi Napoleon, comprised of smoked salmon, ahi tartar, sashimi ahi, and crispy won tons, also comes highly recommended, or choose from a tantalizing selection of sandwiches and wraps. For vegetarians, ask for the Asian Duck Tostado, a slaw tossed with ginger chili cream dressing, sun-dried cranberries and macadamia nuts, but with Asian pear instead of duck. Lunch entreés range from $13-18, the food is definitely worth it and the portions are generous.

The dinner menu is just as impressive and the presentation is stunning. Start off with their very popular mangorita or choose from their extensive beer and wine list. The Cajun Spice Dusted Crispy Calamari over Thai inspired spinach and a citrus aioli is a palatable appetizer as are the Rock Shrimp Tempura served with truffle honey, spicy miso and sweet soy tobiko (flying fish roe) aioli. For an entrée try the Macadamia Nut Crusted Fresh Catch with Mashed Purple Sweet Potatoes or their Paniolo Ribs. Vegetarians are not forgotten and they even get their own separate menu (available at dinner only). The Blackened Tofu with Wasabi Tossed Greens and the Coconut Vegetable Curry are both excellent choices. Entrees range from $24-32.

If you have saved room for dessert or just can’t pass up the mouth-watering selection of cakes and sweets, go for the Mango Cheesecake or Chocolate Truffle Cake. Both are creamy and luscious, and hey, you’re on vacation, so why not?

Hali’imaile General Store is a necessary stopover for Maui vacationers looking for the best the island has to offer. Celebrities such as Jack Nicholson, Harrison Ford, Elton John, Helen Hunt, and Bonnie Rait have all put in an appearance and returning guests often beg Bev for the secrets to her creations. If you, too, find the food irresistible, pick up the Hali’imaile General Store’s cookbook and take the tastes of the restaurant back home with you.

Dinner reservations are highly recommended and lunch reservations are appreciated for parties of six or more.

Hali’imaile General Store
900 Hali’imaile Rd.
Hali’imaile, HI
Tel: (808) 572-2666
www.bevgannonrestaurants.com

- Review by Becky Timbers (whereonearth07@gmail.com)

Becky Timbers graduated from St. Lawrence University with a BS in environmental studies and biology. She has traveled extensively in Belize, Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, China, New Zealand, Switzerland, and Kenya where she fell in love with photography and capturing wildlife and landscapes as well as creative writing. Originally from Vermont, she bought a one-way ticket to Maui to avoid another eastern winter.