La Buca has grown from a small neighborhood restaurant with just a few tables, into one of the best Italian restaurants in Los Angeles. It is located on the less popular part of Melrose Avenue, just a block west of Western, a district that still has a way to go to catch up with its trendier counterpart.

The space is tiny to say the least, a couple of tables on either side of the entrance and seven more pressed really close together on the remaining area. The elevated walls are covered by oversized photos of glamorous Sophia Loren, Marcello Mastroianni, and other Italian movie stars. A flat screen TV is hanging from one of the corners above the bar, which has nonexistent stools and is used as a serving area for the waiters.

The space next door is being remodeled and will be open soon to welcome the growing Buca followers.

It’s close to 9 p.m. and the place is crammed full of boisterous patrons at the larger tables, while romantically inclined couples sit on the smaller ones situated on the corners of the room. The feeling says that we have entered Italy.

The menu is dominated by famous pasta dishes and popular pizzas, hiding well the magnificent masterpieces they truly are. The pasta is hand-made by “Mamma,” an older Italian silver-haired lady who, although she does not speak much English, is extremely friendly and happy to interact with the restaurant’s diners.

The entire place seems to be run by family, young Italian waiters who are enthusiastic and very welcoming, and we cannot stop wondering if they are all Mamma’s children. After greeting us in Italian, one of them shows us to our diminutive table.

We order the Calamari Fritti as an appetizer, an absolute pleasure because of how light they feel even though they are crispy and golden. The two pasta dishes that follow, the Gnocchi Pesto and the Tagliatelle Boscaiola, are delicious. The hand-made pasta is terrific, gentle to the palate and as with the calamari has a tremendous and appreciated lightness to it.

One can also order from the great selection of daily specials. Capesante de Conte Luca, wonderful scallops with chestnut and porcini mushrooms served in soup; or Filetto al Pepe Rosa, fillet mignon in a pink pepper sauce served with mashed potatoes.

For lunch, there are several Paninis. Just to name a few: there is Panino al Crudo, with prosciutto, arugula, and mushrooms; Panino Vegetariano, grilled zucchini and eggplant with bell peppers and tomatoes; or Panino al Pollo, grilled chicken breast with mixed greens, tomato, and sautéed onions.

Desserts are a compilation of Italian classics. There’s an infamous Tiramisu, the wonderful Bianco e Nero Profiterole, and the one we chose, the Panacotta - a mixture of cream, milk, sugar, and gelatin served with strawberry sauce. Pure heaven in every bite.

For the quality, the prices could not be better.

After such a fantastic meal, we were reluctant to leave. It was a glorious evening, full of Italian flavors that you do not have to be Italian to love. La Buca is a new Italian classic for Los Angeles, turning out more and more fans and devotees.

Osteria La Buca
5210 ½ Melrose Ave.
Hollywood, CA
Tel: (323) 462-1900
www.osterialabuca.com

- Reviewed by Raquel Boix Vidal (raquelboixvidal@yahoo.com)