At less than one month old, A Mano is already a hit. The Italian trattoria is the latest extension of Dan Sachs and Joanna Chessie, co-owners of one of Chicago’s popular wine bars, Bin 36.

Located directly below Bin 36 at the corner of Chicago’s ever-popular Marina City, A Mano is in plain sight with a glass facade, which showcases its open kitchen and enticing gelato and sorbet bar. “A mano” means “by hand,” indicative of the high-quality restaurant magic, from the hand-made pastas to hand-made wines and hand-made desserts.

The restaurant boasts two dining areas, each with its own energy and fluidity, but providing the same flavorful menu items and hospitable service. The main dining room maintains the lively signature of traditional Italian gastronomic experiences with an open kitchen in which chefs move at warp speed and food appears just as quickly. My lap around the kitchen showcased various stations, including an ice case with fresh seafood and a cutting board with bricks of cured meats. The fragrant smoke that escaped from the dishes made me race back to my chair; the sooner I sat, the sooner I ate.

I sat in the lounge, which I learned opened that very evening for dinner. Dimly lit with a single candle placed on each of the eight tables, the lounge offered a more relaxed dining experience, with a mix of reclining cushioned chairs and ornate benches situated along the exposed-brick walls. I consider the separate dining areas with opposite environments a stroke of genius, allowing diners in a more relaxed mood a subdued scene while offering others a more energized scene simply by walking down three steps.

The menu proved equally accommodating. Appetizers were available singly, in a trio or in a set of six. I could not resist ordering six, and was happier in the end because of it. In a matter of minutes, a platter of Mortadella, Prosciutto di Parma, and spiced salami appeared alongside fresh oysters with pickled golden beets and radishes, a grilled octopus salad and roasted pepper with goat cheese salad. The beautifully presented dishes tasted even better than they looked. The meats melted in my mouth but left just the right amount of flavor to pair perfectly with a bottle of medium-bodied red wine, while the oysters and salads provided the refreshing crunch to counter the smoothness of the meats.

A clam and garlic confit pizza followed the appetizers, with a good amount of flavor and a effective palate transition from fresh seafood to flavorful pastas.

Speaking of smooth, the hand-made pastas dissolved in my mouth, leaving nothing but bursting flavor from its accompanying ingredients. I ordered pumpkin ravioli served with brown butter, back walnuts, Brussels sprout leaves and pecorino cheese. The flavors stimulated every taste bud in my mouth and, like the appetizers, paired perfectly with our chosen red wine. I also tasted the pappardelle with braised boar and raisins, and fell equally in love with the texture of the raisins against the smooth meat and pasta. This dish played with my taste buds, fluctuating between salty and sweet all in good taste.

Good thing the lounge is located right next to the gelato, because I was ready to try every colorful square in the freezer when our dinner plates disappeared.

Admittedly, the gelato and sorbetto was the best part. The only other gelato I’ve tasted that measures up to the creative flavors and smooth texture was in Italy. After sampling almost all the flavors, I decided on a trio of mascarpone, olive oil and pistachio gelato. Needless to say, those spoonfuls disappeared promptly after they were served. The flavors change on any given day, and among several other dessert options, including ricotta cheesecake and chocolate hazelnut torte. I also tried a few samples of their dessert wines, which date back more than 30 years, and provide a sweet ending to the experience.

A Mano, a young restaurant backed by solid experience, prides itself on hand-made culinary magic. The restaurant emits intimacy between food and diner, disclosing its kitchen secrets in the middle of the dining room. And the magic in this kitchen is made a mano.

A Mano Italian Trattoria
335 N. Dearborn
Chicago, IL
Tel: (312) 629-3500
www.amanochicago.com

- Written by Karla L. Yeh (karla.yeh@gmail.com)

Karla Yeh’s favorite things to do are try new foods and meet new people. Other than writing, she is passionate about fine dining. This came about when she realized that some restaurants actually created dishes almost as tasty as those her parents taught her to cook. She challenges any restaurant to eliminate ‘almost’ from the last sentence.