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Slate Bleu - A Step Out of the Ordinary

Written on October 30, 2007

slate1Quietly nestled only a brick walkway’s distance from South Main Street in Doylestown, PA, Slate Bleu is quaintly landscaped featuring a gnarled, old, cutleaf Japanese maple tree and brightly colored potted flowers. Despite impeccable cuisine, this restaurant is so slyly positioned under the noses of locals that it is infrequently found and remains the best kept dining secret of Bucks County.

Surprisingly, it is only a minute’s walk eastbound from the Doylestown Train Station. Old fashioned country-style paint adorns the exterior walls in light cream and matte red, a common theme heralding from Historic West Philadelphia. Upon entering, the country-feel slips elegantly into a low-lit dining hall graced with mirror trim and immaculately presented tables.

“Good afternoon and welcome to Slate Bleu,” the restaurant owner, Susan Matyas, exclaims warmly over a jazz rendition of “Satin Doll” playing lightly in the background. “Allow me to take you to your seat.”

Once seated, you are extended a menu and an invitation to enjoy a meticulously planned meal. To whet your palette, a wine list including selections from France, California, South America, Argentina, Australia, Italy, Spain and Oregon is available with glasses ranging between $8 and $11, on average. Personal recommendations are the Touraine Sauvignon Blanc from France (with seafood or chicken) and, in the event you seek smooth, sophisticated flavor regardless of your entrée, the Guigal Côtes Du Rhône Rose’, also from France, is a perfect choice, or the Blue Tongue Merlot from Australia (with beef or red meat). For events requiring a pristine first impression, reserve a bottle of French Cuvee Dom Perignon, at $215, and watch for the spark of approval in your esteemed guest’s eyes.

Watch out bringing young ones to accompany you to this dinner, soda is $3, and quickly builds a bill beyond budget if you are unaware. Coffee and espresso are at, or in excess of $4 a cup. Upon first taste of the coffee, though, it is apparent that this blend is brewed from the finest coca beans available in the mountains of France, and well worth the price to an aficionado.

After the waitress had visited my table for the third time, I had decided to hold her off by ordering a soup while reviewing the menu’s. Mussel Soup with Saffron was delivered with steam and aromatic flavor, but otherwise passed bite after bite unimpressively. Saffron had been underscored beneath a wave of tomato flavor and the mussels had done little for the soup than add substance to the broth.

Another choice for those adverse to seafood or privy to my recommendation to avoid the Mussel Soup is the Soup Au Pistou, similarly priced and offering a vegetable base seasoned with basil. Also available are salads ranging from a Green Salad, Salad Ardoise, Endive, Watercress and Green Apple Salad, and Salad of Organic Local Tomatoes, all available as low-priced starters in comparison to the appetizer menu. Grain Mustard Dressing is used to compliment the Endive, Watercress and Green Apple Salad, and the Salad Ardoise features greens, figs Serrano Ham, French bleu, walnuts and balsamic vinaigrette - this is one of no more than a handful of dishes that acutely represent the name of the restaurant by featuring Bleu cheese.

Priced at $16, Fisher’s Island Oysters are available cold and baked. There is also a Bordin Blanc White Sausage with Apples and Leek appetizer that would compliment a steak entrée in the same way a musical bridge leads a piece into a memorable chorus. Butternut Ravioli in a Sage Sauce is offered for pasta lovers, escargots en Croûte with garlic and herbs in pastry are for the most adventurous fine dining experience. Other Hor Doeuvres include Tartare of Salmon and Sautéed Chicken Liver in a Sweet Corn Crepe’. Any of these will bring a pleasing bite into the start of a remarkable dinner.

Midway through the Mussel Soup I decided to give seafood at Slate Bleu another chance, selecting the Seared Sea Scallops as my main entrée. Less than ten minutes after ordering I was greeted with a masterful ensemble of sea scallops, asparagus, basil, mushrooms and a creamy butternut sauce that whisked the dish into classic proportions of taste.

slatebleu2At the first bite it was impossible to deny the seamless flavor compliments between the scallops, the sauce and the mushrooms. It was as though these foodstuffs were brought upon the Earth solely for the purpose of being combined by Chef Mark Matyas for this dish exclusively. The food was filling and tasty enough to quiver over. Service was attentive throughout the dish with bus people filling my water, my waitress humbly asking my opinion of the food and imparting a smile and congratulatory remark about how this dish is her preferred dinner here.

At $28 per plate, the entrée is reasonably priced considering the ambiance of the restaurant, the deliciousness of the platter and the years of fine dining experience Matyas has accumulated over his cooking career.

Alternatives to scallops include the Steak Au Poivre at $30, a plate composed of a black pepper encrusted New York steak, trout, Endives and Mustard Sauce priced at $24, served with its featured endives sautéed, Chicken with Artichokes and Preserved Lemons are $24, and come served over tagliatelli pasta, Scottish Salmon with a Creamy Horseradish Sauce is $27, and Grilled Filet Mignon with Jus Au Béarnaise rings in at $33.

Sitting quietly, observing the light chatter flickering to the candlelight, I enjoyed my post meal coffee and reviewed the desserts available at Slate Bleu, including Acacia Honey Crème Brülée at $8, Fresh Peaches with a Red Current Sauce and Pistachios at $8, an Assortment of Sorbet at $8, and Grand Marnier Soufflé at $13. The desserts sounded so good, they put knots in my throat just to turn them down.

The dinner was one to remember and a must for people visiting the Philadelphia area. Tucked away, out of sight to the rest of the public, yet within reaching distance of the SEPTA R-5 line, Slate Bleu is a top pick for the Philadelphia region. Providing a historic appearance, an elegant interior atmosphere and a menu to rival fine French dining restaurants in New York, this is a capital way to enjoy food in historic Doylestown.

Regardless of your dining background, Slate Bleu will be a dinner unlike any you’ve had before.

Slate Bleu
100 S. Main St.
Doylestown, PA
Tel: (215) 348-0222
www.slatebleu.com

-Review by Jason M. Mueller (c0mpguy7@msn.com)

Jason Mueller is a freelance writer and Chairperson of the Hunter S. Thompson Foundation.

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