It’s strange how some bars and restaurants are a hit from the day they open, while similar places remain non-starters. Indigo took the city of Mumbai, India, by storm from day one. Perhaps it was the reputation of celebrity chef/owner Rahul Akerkar that attracted the city’s A-listers, or its unusual setting in the most sought after part of the city.

Indigo is located in a marvelous fairytale cottage-like structure in a quiet street behind India’s famous hotel, the Taj Mahal Palace and Towers.

In the afternoons, it is packed with successful businessmen and smart ladies doing lunch, and the odd smattering of tourists who have read about it in guide books. Evenings see the large bar and lounge area of Indigo crowded with the upper crust of Mumbai.

Its interiors, in contrast to its external appearance, are elegantly minimalist. Most guests seem to prefer to hang around the bar in the evenings, though the food at Indigo is what has probably earned it a place among the 60 best restaurants of the world, according to Condé Nast Traveler.

The bartender mixes a mean Bellini and the kiwi margaritas are to die for. It is oddly reassuring to be able to get your favorite drink anywhere in the world if you know where to look. Whether a whisky cocktail or your choice of Australian or Californian wine, the Indigo bartender will produce it, at a steep price. The snacks at the bar are also delightful and it is not unusual for guests to spend the entire evening at the bar and skip the main meal.

The music is not deafening but the crowds can be noisy. In fact, it is so much like an old boy’s reunion here most nights that newcomers can feel intimidated and put off.

The restaurant has a delightful open air eating area and a cigar lounge on an upper floor which is much quieter. The lounge has signature indigo colored walls and an impressive collection of cigars. The terrace is at different levels with gracious trees all around adding to the ambiance. Soft pools of light from huge candles and the moon above create an aura of magic.

Specify that you want to eat upstairs when you make a reservation, though. Many first timers and those who are not on the regulars’ list have turned up to discover that their bookings are mysteriously lost!

The menu at Indigo isn’t very extensive, but it is revised a couple of times a year. There are also some very popular off-menu dishes which your very courteous waiter may recommend. Rahul is an innovative chef and blends age old family recipes with nouvelle cuisine with great success. It is not quite Indian, rather pan-Asian, but with unusual modifications and accompaniments. The seafood is usually very fresh and cooked to perfection. Coconut seems to be a favored ingredient but it is used judiciously.

The unusual beet and coconut soup, or hot beef salad, makes a good first course. Another choice is herbed goat cheese tossed with spinach and grilled apples dressed with a walnut flavored vinaigrette. The prawns in roasted coconut gravy, or the seared tuna tempered with cracked mustard which is served with oyster mushrooms, pok choy greens tossed with sesame and roasted tomatoes make good main courses. The much acclaimed lobster risotto was a bit of a let down, though.

Those who prefer a more robust main course cannot go wrong with char-grilled beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola, served with black-eyed-pea ragout, asparagus tips, and a tandoor-roasted onion. Goat cheese ravioli, filet mignon with the unique Indigo twist, or Rosemary Tandoori Chicken are other options.

The desserts at Indigo are legendary. You can look forward to a perfect Tiramisu, a white chocolate with orange rind mousse, or a number of sinful dark chocolate delights.

In a city where new restaurants open and close down every other week, Indigo has held its own. A great place for people watching (Bill Clinton and Chelsea have enjoyed an evening out here), most weekends see the dazzling stars from Mumbai’s Bollywood descend on earth here. Small wonder that it is on the must-do list of tourists who can splurge.

Indigo
4 Mandlik Road Colaba
Bombay (Mumbai)
+91 22 5636 8999

- Reviewed by Drs. Satya and Usha Banerji (drsbanerji@gmail.com)

Dr. Satya Banerji and Usha travel widely. They have worked in the life sciences for over three decades and have had many occasions to visit major international cities. They are now freelance writers with a focus on fine dining and hotels in Long Island, Florida, California, Puerto Rico, Nicaragua, EU countries, Dubai, Singapore, Hong Kong, Japan, and Australia. Usha is a Biochemist who works in palliative care for terminally ill cancer patients and their families. She has developed a recipe for wholesome nutrition of people who are too sick from radiation and chemical therapy to eat normal meals.