If I didn’t know better, I’d think some kids had taken over a five star restaurant.

This is not a criticism in any way, but one visit to Gargoyles on the Square in Davis Square, in Boston, will give you the same impression. There is nothing lacking in the culinary department, service or atmosphere. It’s not the disco ball hanging from the ceiling in the main dining area (for the restaurant’s Sunday Disco Brunch). The place just has such a relaxed ambiance that it’s easy to forget where you are.

Gone is the austere tone of many fine dining establishments, the silent hush of diners clinking their glasses and minding their manners, the most dubious dress codes of some grander, and less delicious, restaurants. And what is left is the best duck confit (French for “preserved”) in town.

These aspects in no way discredit Gargoyles. The restaurant is very much, as they boast, like a mom and pop operation. The subdued lighting and cozy atmosphere are perfect, and allows the diner to enjoy cuisine on par with many places in downtown Boston, without the pretension and price. The knowledgeable, efficient staff bring an air of levity to the meal.

Although the menu has many alluring dishes, one might easily be persuaded to get the six-course tasting tour, wherein visitors are brought an array of hallmark dishes and interesting food pairings. On my first visit, I was greeted with Gargoyles’ Signature Hawaiian-Style Tuna Poke, a perfect way to start off any meal. This was followed with a salad of heirloom tomatoes and goat’s milk impastata. Despite the lateness of the season, the tomatoes were incredible and fresh. Next came a stunning lobster - taco-flavored with horchata, carica salsa, and Cackalacky crèma.

Each dish was better than the next, so by the time I reached the 36-Hour sous-vide short ribs (marinated for a day and a half) and hoisin and honey glazed duck confit, I was overwhelmed. The desert, chocolate cake and house-made chocolate pretzel ice cream, was almost too much after such a rich and decadent meal. While all the food was impeccable in taste and plating, the duck, served with sticky rice, mangoes, and young coconut milk, definitely stole the show.

Things can be ordered a la carte, of course, but to get the best Gargoyles has to offer, the tasting menu is highly recommended. For an additional $30, each course can be paired with wine. The price of the entire meal is almost as much as one might pay for six glasses of wine at certain restaurants.

Gargoyles also has an extensive wine and cocktail menu, and a bar menu for simpler fare. The restaurant is divided into an inviting curtained dining area, and a main bar in front. Although reservations might be a good idea for larger parties, I have never had to wait for a spot, even with a couple of guests in tow.

Anyone living in or visiting the Boston area in search of a great culinary experience should not miss Gargoyles on the Square, located in Davis Square in Somerville. As the restaurant offers, come as you are, and heed its reminder, “food is a metaphor for the good things in life.”

Make sure to order a cab if you get the wine pairing with the tasting menu, or risk the need to sober up drinking espresso for a few hours afterwards.

Gargoyles on the Square
219 Elm St
Somerville, MA 02144
Tel: (617) 776-5300
www.gargoylesonthesquare.com

-Written by Richard Radford (raradford@gmail.com)